My web-based email account has been off line now for five days, and shows no sign of coming on line again.
They have a message posted on their site, which basically implies that all mail sent in the last week will be lost.
If you have sent me a message, please send it again.
Until the PostMaster account comes back on line I will not have access to my address books (I didn't back them up, naughty boy!).

Without wishing to blow my own trumpet (why stop now!) I thought I would show off my award for a photo I've put on a online photo magazine. You'll have to scroll down below the profile for the photo's.


Editor's Choice Photos on ePHOTOzine.com

Buenos Aires is a great city. It's safe (as any city could be), it's lively and very cosmopolitan. BUT....
They don't 'alf go to bed late.
Last night I sauntered home at 4am, and the cafes, restaurants and pubs were crammed-packed.
Tonight one of the long-term inmates at the hostel is having a birthday party. He is a Brit working out here and is also in a band. The band are playing live at the party. They are not even planning to arrive to set up before midnight. So bang goes any plans to have an early night after last nights outing.
I am ready for bed and it's now 7:30pm.
It's all the early mornings and early bedtimes in the Galapagos that has ruined my routine!

Oh what a night! Two flights, Ecuador to Peru, then, Peru to Argentina
First flight went okay, second flight, tad bumpy but all's well until we reached Argentina's capital.
Where the glittering lights of the city should have been, all I could see out of the tiny window was a thick smudge of orange. Scattered beyond the city limits, small towns and villages shone brightly. A thick low fog (smog?) had blanketed Buenos Aires, but quite literally, only the city, the surrounding areas were clear.
As we came in to land it was obvious the fog only reached as far as the tree tops, as tall buildings and the tallest trees poked up through the mist and were crystal clear. As the plane decended to tree level and the landing lights of the runway were just a few metres directly below us, the plane roared back into action and lunged forward and up. We lunged back and down in to our seats (Wow, Mr Einstein was right!) We climbed high back in to the city skies and was put into a holding pattern for about 30 minutes.
The captain informed us that conditions were not right and we would try again.
We did try again and this time we were engulfed in the fog before the engines roared back in to action and the plane climbed back in to the sky for a second time.
The captain came back on the intercom "the runway is not up to our standards, we land at another airport, thank you for your comprehension". I think the Spanish version was much more comprehensive, but that's what you get for not speaking the first language!
We landed at the small city airport rather than the out-of-town international airport.
I believe they must have scrambled for immigration and customs officers as the airport was not expecting any international flights. One officer cleared a winding queue of 300 people. It took a LONG time.
I, however, was not worried, as I had all the time in the world. We landed, finally, at 4:30am the fog having delayed us for two hours. This was good, as I didn't have accommodation booked for the night of arrival, only the night of the day of arrival (does that make sense?).
My hostel wouldn't really open until early morning (socially early morning, not 4am early morning) So I just pottered around the airport. Once I cleared immigration, collected my bags and cleared customs, it was only 5:15am. So I sat myself at a cafe and watched the world go by for about three hours in the arrivals lounge.
I love airports, always have. For me I've only ever been to airports for holidays and my travels. I am either off to somewhere exciting, or returning after a long time away from home and both types of trips makes me happy. Being in the airport reminds me how lucky I am.
Usually as soon as you arrive, you leave the airport, but on this occasion, I just sat and watched. Without wishing to sound like the opening lines of the film "Love Actually" watching the arrivals at the airport is a very heart-warming experience. So many smiles, hugs and tears of loved ones arriving home or visiting for a holiday.
Finally, I got in a taxi and made my way to the hostel only to find they have a 24-7 reception ... ARSE!

Yesterday was muchos busy. I booked or changed three flights, a new flight from Ecuador to Argentina (back to where I first entered South America), changed my flight home, to give me a few more days and to get out in Madrid instead of flying direct to London and finially, I booked a Barcelona to Bristol flight.
All I have to do is get from Madrid to Barcelona, which shouldn't be a problem, and I'm looking forward to seeing both those cities.
The great news is I fly direct in to Bristol, which means a 15 minute journey home, rather than a three and a half hours from Gatwick (My sister will be pleased, 7 hours for her!)
So, this afternoon I fly to Lima, and then connect to Buenos Aires arriving at 3am!!!
Still not feeling well, in the last two days I've had just one meal, and could only manage part of that. Very hungry, but the thought of food makes me wanna throw up!

Seymour Island: A repeat of last sundays program, looks like all the boats end at Seymour as it's right next to the airport. On night in Purto Ayora before flying back to the mainland tomorrow

Santa Fe Island: We awoke to find ourselfs in a very sheltered bay with swimmingpool blue waters, calm as a millpond. A wet landing on a sea-lion packed beach and a walk through the dry cactus forest of the Islands took us most the morning. On the walk we saw our first land iguanas (not quite as ugly as the marine iguanas, but they aint going to win any beauty prizes).
After a quick dash to the boat and squeezing in to the wet suits we headded to a small out-crop of rocks on the bottom of the bay. There were two giant sea-turtles resting by the rocks. On decided he didn't like the look of his new audience, so glided out of view, far from the madding crowd. We then went back towards the beach where we hand landed earlier. From the beach we could see a shark resting in the warm shallows, but on on return, this time IN the water, we had no such luck. Then we followed the walls of the bay, we saw another turtle, more seals and a wall of big-eyed fish.
South Plazas: After lunch we had a dry landing on a tiny island jam-packed with land iguanas. Great views of Boobies and other birds flying off of the small cliffs and hanging motionless in the air. Back on board for a great dinner, a goodbye cake from the crew, and cocktail and bucket of punch.

Esanola Island - Punta Suarez: We had a dry landing in the morning and our longest walk to date. We came face to face with sea-lions, marine iguanas, blue footed boobies, grey albatros, and nazca boobies. We ended the walk with a great view from the top of the cliffs, of a very powerful blow-hole, created by the waves and the holes in the lava at sea-level.
Esanola Island - Gardener Bay: Lots of time to relax on the beach and snorkel with sea-lions in the bay.

Floriana Island - Post Office Bay: We walked up to Baroness Viewpoint for a view of the bay and then took a dingy ride around the bay, spotting plenty of rays and a baby shark in the very shallow and crystal-clear waters. A tradition of leaving mail in a barrel just off of the beach had been going on for a hundred years or more, passing ships would sort through the mail and take any destined for the country they were returning to. In modern times, the tourist boats had continued this tradition and we looked through the mail. I took two postcards for Bristoilans which I will hand deliver on my return. I didn't leave any mail as I had not done my home work and didn't realise you could!
We then walked on to the entrance of a lava tube and descended in to the very dark tunnel. The slippery ground and the steep angle made it hard work, but it was very short, and we quickly came to the cavern where the rain and sea water met, and the tunnel ended.
Snorkeling - Devils Crown: On our way out to the snorkel site we spotted some dolphins just off of devils crown. As we got closer we realised that they wern't dolphins but KILLER WHALES, I had mentioned to another passenger not an hour before that I had seen lots of whales before, but never an Orca. Here were two, playing just metres off of the boat. We left them after about 15 minutes and made our way back to the crown. I must admit, the thought of getting off of a perfectly safe boat in the middle of the sea, right nest to sharp shark infested waters did not really appeal, but donned in my rather snazzy wetsuit, I did follow the rest of the passengers. We spotted a white-tip shark immediately. Most of us just floated above it as it swam slowly about 5 metres below us. We then made our way around the outer edges of the crown. The seas were a bit rough, but the waves were big enough to lift you, rather than crash over you. We saw lots of sea-life and played with seals almost the whole of the time. Inside the crown the water was much calmer, we saw some penguins (I didn't realise they had penguins so far north, but there are!) turtles, the shark again (some think it was a different one) and lots of fish, including a ball of black fish that was so dense, I first thought it was a rock.
We then boarded the dingy again and made our way to the edge of another island for some time with some very playful seals. Here though the water seemed much colder, and most of us could only mangage ten minutes. It was then back to the boat for lunch
Floriana Island - Punta Cormorant: A point named because of a boat that used to visit, not because of the bird. We first walked to a lagoon which contained some flamingo's and then to the other-side of the island where we found huge turtle-tracks on the beach and sharks in the water. The turtles had come up during the night to dig their nests and lay the eggs, returning to the water before dawn. The sharks where their for a turtle breakfast.

The Guantanamera is not quite so posh as the Aida Maria, but still VERY nice (click here for pic)
I boarded at 6pm, this time in time for dinner and this time all the other passengers had also joined today, so there was none of the clickiness of the other boat.
This time I was sharing with an American girld called Lisa, a Las Vagas casino card dealer.
There was a lot more seating space on the top-deck and the dinner tables all together, albeit back-to-back, but overall, it felt more comfy.
They also had wetsuits on-board for hire, which meant a lot more time in the water when snorkeling.

6am First Landing, 7:30am Breakfast
Seymour Island: An early start and sunrise on one of the islands. The deep golden light created a halo effect on the white fluffy feathers of the baby Blue-Footed Boobies. Plenty of the famous adult birds around as well. Seals basked in the first light and male Frigate Birds had already inflated their big red pouches trying to attract a mate.
We had breakfast as we made our way back to the port. By 10am we had left the boat and most checked in to the airport for their flights back to the mainland. I made my way back to Purto Ayora (the main town in the Galapagos). Felt a little cheated that day three was really only a third of a day long, but the whole trip had been great, so must'unt grumble.

I have three days in the town before my next boat leaves.

Breakfast at 7am, first landing at 8am.
Bartolome Island: 500 steps took us to a lookout point that had 360 degree views of the surrounding bays and islands, including a tall pinnacle of rock sticking out the sea, like a needle. You could quite clearly see two circular flooded volcanic creators just off of the island, that was coloured the most beautiful aquamarine.
A quick boat ride to the beach and a very short walk across the isthmus took us to the opposite beach where the more observant saw sharks just a few feet from the shore in the breaking waves. Another chance of snorkeling. Huge schools of fish and the change to swim with sea-turtles. It was amazing, they glide so elegantly through the water.
Santiago Island: After lunch back on board, we made our way around the other side of the island and walked on lava fields created about 100 years ago. The area was massive and already, a few plants and small animals, had already made the new land their home.

Breakfast at 7am followed by first landing at 8am.
Rabida Island: We first walked along the dark red volcanic sand beach to the nesting site of the pelicans. You had to weave in and out of the sea-lions to get to them. Just like in Antarctica, you could get amazingly close to the animals, but were asked not to touch or frighten them. So we moved slowly and tried to keep a metre away at all times.
We walked back to the landing site via a path that led around a lagoon and up a small hill. Here we got a panoramic view of the beach area.
Once back on the beach we had about an hour to snorkel (no-one got to see much apart from the odd seal and big fish) or relax in the sun.
James Bay, Santiago Island: A quiet little bay with golden sand, we landed and then took a walk along the magma rocks that lined the coast. Here was one of the few places you could see both kinds of sea-lion in the Galapagos. I also got my first sitting of marine iguanas, lots of them, and they is UGLY. They eat green algae that grows on the rocks. It is so salty that they filter out the salt and spit it back on to the rocks. Some of the spit blows back on to their heads, so some of them have salty crowns of dried spit, snot and salt. NICE!
I opted out of the second chance to snorkel that day, and instead relaxed on the beach.
After the snorkel it was back on the boat for dinner and then a rather early night.

It took two days to organise a tour. I took a gamble and booked the boats on the island itself. Doing so I saved over US$300, but almost missed out altogether as it's such a busy time.
Instead of doing a 8 day trip I have managed to organise two trips, one doing the northern loop and the other doing the southern loop. Doing it this way, I have saved myself a day (at a cost of US$110 per day), as the 8 day cruise includes a day on the island where I have been for two days and I have already visited the attractions (for free)
It is very posh (click here for pic) three good meals a day and our cabins cleaned and made every morning. Hot water and aircon, what more could you ask for.
I was sharing with an Aussie guy called Brett. The cabins were small but comfy. I boarded at 8pm and joined the rest of the passengers (most of whom had already been on board for 3 days as they managed to book a 8 day cruise).
At midnight the boat set sail for our first destination, so we would be there in time for the first landing, just after breakfast.

Happy Birthday to both my brother-in-law Eamonn and me amiga Katelyn.

Well, I have booked the flight at least to the Galapagos Islands, next stage, to find a tour on the islands. My friends, who have just returned, got a 8 day cruise for US$600, but here on the mainland they want a minimum of US$1100.
It's a gamble going to the Islands without a booking, but for five-hundred dollars off I'm willing to take it! Even $200 off will be a bonus!
Another gamble that I took, but lost, was that the prices for flights to Argentina or Rio would be cheaper from Ecuador than they were from Peru. They are almost three times the price!!!
I have to do some feverish sums to work out where next!
I have put a request in to change my ticket home to allow me to stop over in Madrid. That way I can make my way to Barcelona and fly direct to Bristol rather than Gatwick. Trouble is, I don't find out until after I get back to Ecuador from the Galapigos. Keep your fingers crossed.
Guaaquil, the biggest city, but not the capital, of Ecuador is like every other big city. It a tiny bit cleaner and smarter than Lima, La Paz, Santiago etc, but only a tiny bit.
The town on the Galapagos where I will be searching for a trip sounds like a chilled out place, so it will be nice to relax and soak up some Island Life for a few days as well as working on evening-out the 'drivers arm' tan!

To Christopher-Pearce-kin-Pie who turns 31 today (well, yesterday actually, on the 5th, but I was travelling, so couldn't get online!)
Have a great time (in India) see you when you get back!

I have arrived safely in Ecuador.
From Cusco I had a lunchtime flight of one hor to Lima. There I had a 14 hour wait for my connecting flight to Ecuador at 4:30am the next morning. Luckily they have a secure locker room and I dumped my bags and caught a taxi in to the city for a cinema and McDonalds marathon.
I still had a four hour wait at the airport, but at least I killed 10 hours watching films and stuffing my face with junk food.
I wanted to get out of the city as soon as possible and either on to the Galapagos Islands, or if they proove to be too costly, in to the country side. But it's Sunday, so nothing is open. Manaña!

I'm back from the Inca Trail, what a utterly fantastic, mind-blowingly beautiful place it is!
None of my limbs work now and I think I will walk with a hunch and a limp for the rest of my life, but it was worth it!
Four days of walking at altitude was bloody hard work, but from the moment we started until we arrived at Machu Picchu the scenery was breathtaking.
Day One: Walked four hours with a few tough up hill stretches just to give you a taster of what was to come.
Day Two: A six hour day, and the hardest! 7km in all, the first 5km distance was all up hill from 3000 to 4200 metres above sea level (that's 1.2 km UP!!!) does kinda take the wind out of you. Then 2km down hill to our cam site, the other side of 'Dead Woman's Pass'.
Day Three: This was the longest day, but after a relatively small pass, the rest of the day was evenly up and down. (very little flat walking which seems VERY unfair, but that's mountains for you!)
Day Four: A 4am start and a two hour walk to the Sun Gate of Machu Picchu. In the night it had started raining, and a heavy fog had settled in the mountains as light slowly lit the path. From the Sun Gate we could see nothing except a blanket of grey mist. Machu Picchu was there ... some where!
After an hour we caught a glimpse of the Inca City in a small gap and decided to walk down.
By 10am the skies had cleared and the most beautiful Inca Ruins on top of a sugerloaf shaped mountain showed itself it all its glory. Deep valleys, and rounded mountains surrounded the whole site and I must have taken 12 billion photos, something for you to look forward to.

It really is a highlight of South America, highly recommended if you can get here.